Skin Diver CMM.20 Beige

We all are familiar with countless exceptional watches made by the Swiss and Japanese that are dominating the market. Nonetheless, the French also displayed excellence in the fine art of watchmaking with the creation of many beautifully decorated haute horlogerie pieces and complex movements. While YEMA may not be a name that the masses are entirely familiar with, it is a brand synonymous with the production of fine French-made timepieces and an incredibly rich heritage.

Created by Henry Louis Belmont, a graduate from the National Watchmaking School of Besancon, YEMA was founded in 1948 and has been producing fine quality watches since. Along with some household names in the field of watchmaking, YEMA has concentrated on producing mostly emblematic and mechanical timepieces, including sports divers for pilots, racing drivers and underwater divers. Its repertoire includes reviving the YEMA Superman, commonly touted as France's legendary dive watch.

Yema Skin Diver CMM.20 Beige

In the seventies, Yema went on to produce some of the most recognisable chronographs in the world. Word has it that Yema chronographs are often spotted gracing the wrist of Mario Andretti, a highly decorated racing driver with the Indianapolis 500, the Daytona 500 and the Formula One World Championship under his belt. He had even crossed the finishing line to claim the champion trophy at the Indy 500 race in 1969 with a Yema Rallye chronograph strapped on.

Also, Yema's aviation theme watches - the Flygraf chronographs are crafted in close collaboration with pilot watch enthusiasts and professional pilots to reach the greatest heights in the watch industry. And to cover all of the sports prospects, Yema recently crafted its luxurious steel sports watch segment with the limited edition Yema Wristmaster series. In 2025, Yema continues the trend and introduce a new model under it's diving catalogue, Yema Skin Diver CMM.20 Beige.

Right off the bat, the 316L stainless steel case of the YEMA Skin Diver is heavily inspired from watches from the 1960s, integrating a robust design with distinctive elements. YEMA certainly knows all the right formulas to craft one enthusiast-driven vintage-looking mechanical masterpiece, with a case diameter of 39.5mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 47mm and an incredible thickness of 11.5mm, you can expect the watch to look incredibly sturdy yet thin on the wrist, exhibiting a sporty yet elegant appeal.

Ultra legible skin diver dial

The case design draws inspiration from YEMA's iconic 1960s skin diver, exuding vintage charm and a distinct retro flair. Signature elements like the unguarded crown and slim profile stay true to its heritage, while the brushed surfaces with polished bevel enhance its nostalgic character. The sapphire bezel, tinted to match the dial, creates a unified and refined aesthetic. A key update is the new bezel-lock mechanism, now fully integrated beneath the bezel, unlike the original external clamp system. This evolution delivers a sleeker profile and elevates the Superman's tool-watch identity with a touch of modern elegance.

By default, the bezel is securely locked, preventing accidental rotation during dives or daily wear. To operate, simply press down on the bezel to disengage the lock, allowing smooth bi-directional rotation. Once released, the mechanism re-engages, securing the bezel without the need for visible clamps or screws. This clever upgrade enhances both form and function, offering a clean, intuitive experience while staying true to the rugged spirit of the original Superman.

Underneath the double domed sapphire crystal lies an ultra-legible skin diver dial. The dial base has a brushed beige surface, reinforcing the old-school look, and contributing to accentuate the play of light of the polished steel raised markers and hands against the dark dial. Despite a complex layout, it still remains legible by showcasing triangular-shaped hour markers complete with Arabic numerals at cardinal positions; 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock. The oversized applied markers extend into the center of the dial and are matched with a large, arrow-shaped minute hand, a long, pencil-shaped hour hand, and lollipop for the seconds. All the elements are generously filled with vintage-inspired, lime-coloured Super-LumiNova and outlined in polished steel, allowing for visibility under any lighting.

Sapphire bezel & "push-to-unlock" bezel-lock mechanism

Not stopping there, the true ingenuity that allows for such a slim and high functioning watch is the state-of-the-art micro-rotor caliber that represents a significant evolution from the brand's previous reliance on Sellita/ETA movements or the YEMA2000 caliber. The CMM.20, developed with input from the renowned Olivier Mory and Patrick Augerau, is a testament to French horological craftsmanship, with its components produced either by YEMA in Morteau, France, or by local suppliers within a 72km radius. This movement features a tungsten micro-rotor on ball bearings, achieving a thinner profile which contributes to the watch's overall slimmed-down case design without compromising its dive watch capabilities.

A micro-rotor has to be fine-tuned and carefully crafted taking it's shape and aerodynamics into consideration in order for it to capture kinetic energy to power the watch. My minimising the space taken, the rotor is allowed to be moved back, remove a whole entire layer of the movement which makes it possible for a watch to be this slim. It cannot be said enough the ingenuity and the technology powering this horology piece. All of which is featured on an exhibition case back for full view, allowing for 300m of water resistance.

Micro-Rotor Caliber CMM.20

The Skin Diver comes with the updated 20mm Scales Slim bracelet, a modern reissue of YEMA's iconic 1960s design. Crafted from 316L stainless steel with a full brushed finish, it pairs seamlessly with the slim brushed case. The bracelet has been slimmed by 0.40mm for a better fit and tapers smoothly to the clasp, adapting comfortably to the wrist. It features a dive extension and a new on-the-fly adjustment system, allowing quick, tool-free resizing—perfect for changes in wrist size due to heat or activity.

Overall, the Yema Skin Diver CMM.20 Beige reveals an interesting take on a 60s-inspired timepiece with an attractive modern design recalling past references. YEMA has been producing some really outstanding watches from their iconic Superman to various stunning collaboration models, however this latest vintage sports watch release has impressed us once again, proving time and time again how amazing the French are at making such phenomenal timepieces.

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