Airman Double Twelve 42 Blue Ref. GL0553

Founded in 1914 by the uncompromising engineer Eugène Meylan, Glycine has maintained a century-long reputation for technical perfection from its home in Bienne, Switzerland. Meylan's deep understanding of market needs and emerging technologies laid the groundwork for a brand that consistently delivers professional-grade instruments. While the house has produced sturdy, high-value automatics and chronographs for decades, it was the 1953 debut of the Airman that truly defined its legacy. This legendary pilot's watch, featuring its distinctive 24-hour dial and triple time zone capability, became a favorite among aviators and is still highly coveted by collectors today—particularly those vintage examples that saw service with U.S. pilots during the Vietnam War.

Building on this rich military and aviation heritage, Glycine is now taking a modern, more approachable direction with its latest release. For the first time in the collection's storied history, the brand is introducing the Airman Double Twelve. This new iteration swaps the traditional 24-hour format for a highly legible 12-hour dial paired with a matching 12-hour bezel.

In terms of presence, the Double Twelve strikes a sweet spot for the modern collector. At 42mm in diameter and roughly 12.4mm thick, it feels substantial without being overbearing, though the 52mm lug-to-lug length gives it that long, elegant stance on the wrist that Airman fans have come to expect. The case finish is a thoughtful nod to the archives, blending satin-brushed surfaces with polished sides and bevels that add a hint of refinement to its strictly tool-watch silhouette.

The functionality is where the watch's "pilot" soul really shows. The main crown at 3 o'clock handles the basics, and because both it and the caseback screw down tight, you get a solid 100m of water resistance—more than enough for a "splashproof" life. Then there is the signature crown at 4 o'clock, which remains the coolest part of the Airman's engineering; it acts as a dedicated lock for the 12-hour bezel. You simply unscrew it to rotate the steel ring to your desired second time zone, then cinch it back down to ensure your setting doesn't budge while you're on the move.

The real conversation starter here is the "Double Twelve" layout, which marks a significant departure from Glycine's usual DNA. For decades, the Airman has been synonymous with 24-hour scales, but this version brings things back to a more traditional 12-hour display on both the dial and the rotating bezel. It's a clever move that makes the watch far more "accessible" for those of us who find reading a 24-hour dial a bit of a mental workout, yet it still lets you track a second time zone with ease. The execution of the bezel is particularly sharp, featuring a rugged matte surface that provides a muted backdrop for the polished indices. This play between textures gives the watch a bit of extra pop without sacrificing its tool-watch utility.

Protected beneath a double-domed sapphire crystal, the dial features a deep sunray blue finish that shifts tones beautifully depending on how the light hits your wrist. This sense of depth is enhanced by applied indices on the inner ring and a crisp 12-hour scale printed along the outer edge. To pull the design together, Glycine utilized an arrow-head hour hand paired with a syringe-style minute hand tipped in red—a sharp, high-contrast detail that really pops against the sunburst background.

The layout is rounded out by a clean white date wheel at the 3 o'clock position, resulting in a display that feels expertly balanced and full of personality. For those low-light situations, both the indices and hands are generously filled with Super-LumiNova, ensuring the watch remains as functional as it is aesthetic. The movement inside of the Glycine Airman Double Twelve is the SW200-1. It has 26 jewels, beats at 28,800 BPH and has a power reserve of 38 hours.

Moving away from the dial and case, the Glycine Airman Double Twelve 42 is paired with a 22mm blue leather strap that features a signed buckle. It is a choice that softens the watch's military edges, leaning into a more classic, "broken-in" aesthetic that feels great on the wrist from day one.

It is remarkably refreshing to see a brand with over 100 years of history remain so agile in today's market. While many manufacturers stick to a rigid, one-size-fits-all philosophy, Glycine sets itself apart by genuinely listening to its community and delivering the specific designs that enthusiasts actually desire. By prioritizing inclusivity and wearer comfort—best exemplified by the intuitive transition to a 12-hour format in the new Double Twelve—they have carved out a unique space as a brand that truly pays attention. Kudos to Glycine for breaking the mold and standing out in an industry that often overlooks the voice of the fan.

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