Living with the Squale 2001 Reverse Orange

As 2026 begins, it feels only natural to talk about new beginnings—especially in a year where countless new watches will inevitably be introduced to the audience. Yet before looking ahead, I find myself wanting to rewind slightly to the end of 2025 and a familiar, much-anticipated moment on the Gnomon calendar: our annual company Christmas dinner at Long Beach Restaurant, Robertson Quay. Beyond the good food and warm company, there is always one highlight everyone quietly looks forward to—the lucky draw.

Having been in the watch industry, and more specifically at Gnomon, for just over a year, this tradition has become something unexpectedly meaningful to me. A small throwback here: my previous lucky draw watch was the Squale 1545 Christmas Edition with its blue dial, a piece I genuinely love and still enjoy wearing today. With no expectations of what might come next, I did not realise at the time that my next chapter with Squale was already waiting. That evening, it arrived in the form of the Squale 2001 Reverse Orange.


Before diving into the technical nuances of this specific 2001, we need to talk about the foundational role Squale played in dive watch history. Long before they were a household name for enthusiasts, the firm founded by Charles von Büren was the industry’s best-kept secret as the premier specialist case maker supplying high-performance shells to heavyweights like Blancpain, Doxa, and TAG Heuer. Charles was not just a suit behind a desk in Neuchâtel but an obsessive diver testing prototypes in the late 1940s and 50s. This was a time when SCUBA was a wild and unregulated frontier for military frogmen and pioneers like Cousteau. For von Büren, the dive watch was never jewellery; it was a mission-critical tool where waterproofness was a life-or-death technical requirement.

What makes the Squale story so authentic for collectors is that it is rooted in the von Büren family’s genuine expertise in maritime research rather than a marketing department mood board. They spent decades mastering hydrostatic pressure and case ergonomics before ever focusing on their own branding. This transition from being a specialist component supplier to a standalone mark of excellence is exactly why Squale still holds such high street cred among purists today.

Moving to the reference 2001 itself, this was a model that lived on my radar long before I finally held it in my hands. Its reintroduction as the 2001 Heritage for Squale’s 65th anniversary in 2024 sparked immediate fervour among the community, staying true to the original silhouette whilst upgrading the internal specs for the modern era. The excitement surrounding its limited release was well justified because the 2001 is a rare example where radical engineering is backed by an even more compelling history. The provenance is anchored by Jacques-Yves Cousteau, who famously gifted a 2001 to Michel Laval, the first officer of the Calypso, during their 1972 Antarctic expedition. For any serious enthusiast, knowing that Cousteau hand-selected this specific tool for his right-hand man during such a high-stakes mission transforms the watch into something much more than a vintage reissue; it becomes a piece of living maritime history.

“60ATMOS”, 600 meters water resistance.

This gifted watch gained legendary status thanks to the personalised engraving on its case back, which featured Cousteau’s initials alongside Laval’s full name. Within the tight-knit culture of the Calypso crew, it was a well-established tradition to present symbolic objects to key members of the team, making this piece as much a personal talisman as it was a professional instrument. The narrative took a tragic turn during that same 1972 expedition when Laval died in a helicopter accident. Following his passing, the watch returned to Cousteau, who eventually entrusted it to another icon of the deep and close friend, André Laban. Laban kept the watch for decades until his death in 2018, at which point it was acquired by a German collector specialising in historically significant divers. After a period of lengthy negotiation, the watch finally reached its current custodian—an Italian digital entrepreneur—completing a journey that spans the history of modern diving itself.

When studying the archival images of the vintage piece on Squale’s official website—the very watch gifted by Cousteau to Laval—it becomes clear that this is more than just a tool. It is a witness to a life lived to its absolute limits. The scratches, the honest wear, and the uneven patina speak of a history that cannot be simulated. There is something deeply compelling about a watch that carries an unpredictable story, a narrative written not in a studio but through decades of salt, pressure, and discovery.

Original Squale 2001(Photo Credit: Squale)

I happened to be at Gnomon when the 2001 was officially integrated into Squale’s permanent collection and presented in its latest iteration. Reflecting on this newest edition alongside the original, it is clear that the soul of the timepiece has never wavered. For the modern permanent release, Squale introduced three distinct dial colours: Sunray Blue, Reverse Orange, and Sand. I remember seeing all three lined up during the initial launch, never imagining that I would eventually own one myself. The first thing that hits you is the chromatic balance between the dial and bezel, showcasing the vibrant colours Squale is known for in their professional range. Among the trio, the Sand naturally draws the most attention with a tone that is exceptionally well balanced and executed. Whilst the Sunray Blue offers a calm and subtle texture, the Reverse Orange is the most vocal with its high-energy palette. It is truly impressive how faithfully Squale has preserved the essence of the original 2001. The dial layout, the markers, and the hands all stay true to the vintage architecture, ensuring the watch carries the same character and charm as its 1960s predecessor.

The latest iteration of the Squale 2001 in three colourways. (Photo Credit: Monochrome Watches)

When taking a detailed look at the watch itself, the case really begins to speak. Since the 1960s, the 2001 has been revered as an icon defined by its avant-garde asymmetrical barrel case and hidden lugs. To call the case smooth feels like an understatement because it possesses a rare, liquid-like fluidity devoid of a single sharp edge or aggressive line. Everything flows with a seamless and organic grace. Wrapped in a mirror-polished finish, the case feels glossy and almost ethereal, yet it never loses its utilitarian heart.

There is no denying that this watch is built for professionals. With a water-resistance rating of 600m and Squale’s signature “push-to-release” bezel system, it is more than capable of handling serious underwater use—far beyond anything an office-based wearer like myself will ever need. But I will say this: on the wrist, it feels far better than I ever expected. The “push-to-release” bezel deserves a brief mention. By default, the bezel is locked. Only when downward pressure is applied can it be rotated, and once the pressure is released, it locks again. This system exists purely for safety, ensuring dive time cannot be accidentally altered underwater. Realistically, I will never need this feature in daily life—but knowing it is there, and understanding why it exists, is part of the nerdy charm.

The moment the Reverse Orange finally reached my hands, I resized the bracelet and wore it to work the very next day. It genuinely surprised me. Despite the 40mm case dimensions, it does not feel bulky at all because the case architecture wraps so naturally around the wrist. The vibrant orange dial provides a striking contrast that immediately pops. For anyone looking to add a serious statement of colour to their collection, the Reverse Orange is the obvious choice. The shade is bold and unapologetically bright. For me, with a wardrobe that leans heavily towards black and white, it injects a much-needed sense of character and energy. It transforms an otherwise simple outfit into something far less predictable.

Now, if I’m being honest, the fully polished case is a fingerprint magnet. Wear it for a few hours, and yes, it picks up dust and smudges as if it were a magnet for attention. But here’s the thing—it also makes the watch feel alive. A quick swipe with a cloth, and it’s back to glossy perfection. Sure, it’s high-maintenance, but for a watch this cheeky and charismatic? Totally worth it.

Zooming in on the Squale 2001.

The inclusion of hollow middle links is a masterfully brilliant touch, leaning into the 'neo-vintage' architecture that defined luxury divers from the mid-20th century through the early 2000s. While current trends lean heavily toward retro aesthetics, solid bracelets remain the industry norm; therefore, seeing this specific construction in the metal on the 2001 model feels like a deliberate and refreshing nod to horological authenticity. In my time immersed in the watch world, this is the first piece in my personal collection to feature this retro design, and the tactile difference is profound. These links lend a unique character and a charming, lightweight 'jingle' that vintage enthusiasts will immediately recognize, allowing the bracelet to sit securely while providing a transparency that reveals the wrist through the gaps. It effectively breaks the monotony of a standard oyster-style bracelet, making the wearing experience feel dynamic and airy rather than static.


I wouldn’t immediately suggest that this watch is for everyone, nor would I label it as traditionally unisex. Even I had my moments of doubt when it first arrived, wondering, ‘Does this actually suit me?’ But the 2001 had a way of surprising me. It has afforded me the space to explore my own style further, proving that on the wrist, the proportions and balance simply work. From the moment I strapped it on, the Squale 2001 Reverse Orange felt comfortable, familiar, and surprisingly wearable, despite its bold palette and serious dive credentials. It doesn’t attempt to be a 'do-it-all' timepiece, and that is precisely why it resonates with me. Some days I wear it for the heritage, others for the avant-garde design, and some days simply because that vibrant orange dial lifts my mood. Ultimately, that is enough. Not every watch needs to be logical, practical, or versatile on paper. Sometimes, a watch just needs to make you smile when you glance down at your wrist—and this one does exactly that.


Squale 2001 Reverse Orange
Case diameter: 40mm
Height: 13mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire 
Bezel: “ Push to release” technology
Water Resistance: 600m

Movement : SW200-1
Features: hours, minutes, seconds hands
Frequency: 28,800 bph (4Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 38 hours

Bracelet: Stainless steel
Lug width: 19mm
Availability: At Gnomon Watches