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Military timepieces have captured the interests of watch collectors worldwide for their rich heritage built throughout great world wars as an indispensable tool for military personnel. When it comes to steadfast military performance, the French Navy has proven to be a force to be reckoned with, being among the largest and most powerful naval forces in the world. In an effort to create a military-grade timepiece fit for military professionals that could handle the any situation, YEMA designed the Navygraf diver series intended for to take on any physical task with ease.
We are all familiar with the countless exceptional watches crafted by Swiss and Japanese brands that dominate the market. Yet France has long demonstrated its own excellence in the art of watchmaking, producing beautifully decorated haute horlogerie pieces and intricate movements. While YEMA may not yet be a household name, it stands as a symbol of fine French-made timepieces and a rich horological heritage. Founded in 1948 by French watchmaker Henry Louis Belmont, YEMA has consistently combined innovative designs with reliable tool-watch functionality. Today, the brand unveils a true marvel: the Navygraf Pearl CMM.20 Limited Edition, a striking addition that brings a refined touch of elegance to the iconic Navygraf series.
Drawing inspiration from 70s vintage Navygraf models, the Yema Navygraf Pearl CMM.20 retains its distinctive case design seen throughout the Navygraf line up. The 39mm 316L stainless steel case is a textbook exercise in proportion, combining brushed surfaces with polished chamfers to create visual depth and technical finesse. For this edition, the legendary Navygraf case has been slimmed down to an extreme 9.75mm, a feat made possible only by YEMA's proprietary Manufacture micro-rotor calibre CMM.20, a compact automatic movement engineered for efficiency without sacrificing reliability. Despite the ultra-thin profile, the watch maintains a comfortable 46mm lug to lug, ensuring wrist presence without bulk. A polished screw-down crown, stamped with the YEMA logo and protected by an integrated crown guard, completes the ensemble, marrying functional robustness with horological elegance in true enthusiast fashion.
The dial, hewn from natural mother-of-pearl, captivates with a shifting iridescence that plays with light at every tilt of the wrist. Each dial is inherently unique, making every timepiece a singular creation. Its polished surface refracts soft flashes of silver, violet, and turquoise blue, adding a layered sense of depth and sophistication. Steel hour markers, raised in the iconic Navygraf II design and polished to mirror-like perfection, catch the light alongside the matching steel hour and minute hands, producing subtle metallic reflections that dance across the dial. Encircling the composition is a finely printed white minute track for precise time reading. For visibility under low light, the hands, hour markers, and bezel are all treated with Grade A Super-LumiNova, casting a vivid blue glow. The entire dial is protected under a double-domed sapphire crystal, highlighting both the elegance and technical finesse of this meticulously crafted horological masterpiece.
Echoing the dial's refined character, the mother-of-pearl unidirectional bezel enhances the watch's luminous appeal while showcasing the material's natural texture. A protective resin coating preserves its delicate beauty, and a scratch-resistant double-domed sapphire crystal adds exceptional depth and clarity from every angle. Through the exhibition case back, the micro-rotor CMM.20 calibre is revealed, with its sunbeam Côtes de Genève-finished bridges radiating in a fan-like pattern, capturing light exquisitely and underscoring the movement's precise craftsmanship. Each case back is engraved with a unique serial number, and the watch offers 200m water resistance, combining elegance and technical resilience in perfect harmony.
Here comes the pièce de résistance of the timepiece: the extraordinary Manufacture micro-rotor calibre CMM.20. Engineered with a clever Franco-Swiss architecture and high-quality components, this movement delivers impressive performance while maintaining a remarkably slim profile of just 3.70 mm. Its innovative design allows for efficient winding and powers a 70-hour reserve, beating steadily at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). With 33 jewels and a daily accuracy rate of -3/+7 seconds, the CMM.20 combines precision, elegance, and technical ingenuity, making it the beating heart of this exceptional watch.
Completing the Navygraf, the watch comes with a FKM rubber strap designed to fit seamlessly with the lugs. Its distinctive texture and raised underside pattern improve breathability and comfort against the skin. The strap tapers from wide at the lugs to narrower at the ends, creating a sleek, refined profile and a snug fit on the wrist. Crafted from premium FKM VITON® rubber, it offers exceptional resistance to saltwater, sunlight, and extreme temperatures, making it ideal for diving. A brushed and polished YEMA steel buckle adds a touch of elegance to this functional and stylish companion.
The Navygraf Pearl CMM.20 Limited Edition is a rare gem for true horology enthusiasts, where engineering precision meets refined elegance. Its slim yet rugged 39mm case, paired with the mesmerizing limited mother-of-pearl dial and the ingenious Manufacture micro-rotor calibre CMM.20, delivers professional dive reliability in a wearable, everyday form. With sporty sophistication that transitions seamlessly from casual wear to fine attire, this limited edition of just 200 pieces embodies both technical mastery and collectible allure. Every detail, from the luminous hands to the polished hour markers, tells a story of meticulous craftsmanship, making it a timepiece that excites the senses and captures the heart of any watch aficionado.
| Maker | Yema | 
| Movement | Micro-Rotor Caliber Manufacture Morteau 20 | 
| Dial | Blue Mother-of-pearl dial | 
| Luminous | Super-LumiNova BGW9 Grade A | 
| Case | Vertical brushed 316L stainless steel with polished bevel | 
| Bezel | Unidirectional mother-of-pearl diving bezel with resin coating | 
| Crown type | Screw down polished crown with embossed polish YEMA logo | 
| Lug width | 19mm | 
| Crystal material | Double domed sapphire crystal | 
| Strap | FKM Strap | 
| Water resistance | 200m | 
| Dimensions | 39mm in diameter, 46mm lugs to lugs, 9.75mm thick | 
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Published by: Zhi Ying