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YEMA Watches History: Legendary French Watches for Every Adventure
These legendary French timepieces were built for extreme activity, from diving to aviation.
Sep 30, 2025
For watch enthusiasts seeking timepieces that can endure the harshest environments, Yema stands out with a legacy of precision and resilience. From deep-sea dives and high-altitude flights to the demands of motorsports and military operations, Yema watches have proven their reliability in extreme conditions worldwide. Each model reflects decades of French watchmaking expertise, blending vintage inspiration with modern engineering.
So, what makes Yema watches exceptional? Why have these French timepieces captured the hearts of collectors and adventurers alike? Let’s explore the history, craftsmanship, and remarkable versatility that define Yema watches.
YEMA Watches History
For watch enthusiasts curious about French watchmaking, YEMA watches history offers a fascinating journey through decades of innovation and craftsmanship. Here’s a look at the key milestones that shaped YEMA into the brand it is today.
1. Henry-Louis Belmont (1948–1982)
YEMA was founded in 1948 by Henry-Louis Belmont, a top graduate from the National Watchmaking School of Besançon. Belmont was a pioneer in automating watch production while focusing on robust tool watches designed for diving, racing, and military use.
By the early 1950s, YEMA had equipped its watches with early automatic movements and produced dive watches capable of reaching 100 meters.
Throughout the 1960s, YEMA became a leading French watch exporter, reaching over 400,000 watches annually. Iconic models like the Yachtingraf and the Superman emerged during this era, with the latter introducing a patented bezel-lock system and achieving a depth rating of 300 meters, setting a benchmark for French dive watches.
YEMA’s tool watches also found their way into military service, chosen for their durability and precision.
2. Matra / Richard Mille (1982–1986)
In the early 1980s, YEMA joined Matra Horlogerie during a period of industry upheaval caused by quartz watches. Henry-John Belmont became CEO, and Richard Mille oversaw international development.
This era saw YEMA watches venture into space with the Spationaute I and II models worn by French astronauts. Richard Mille also contributed to designing the YEMA North Pole, a titanium watch built to endure extreme polar conditions, highlighting the brand’s focus on tool watches for explorers.
3. Hattori-Seiko (1986–2004)
Hattori-Seiko Co. Ltd took majority ownership in 1986, introducing Japanese influence to some YEMA models while continuing space exploration with the Spationaute III. During this period, YEMA maintained its reputation for precise tool watches and developed chronographs like the Master Elements, demonstrating advanced functionality and versatility for professional use.
4. Ambre France (2009–to date)
Ambre France, a family-owned watchmaking group, took over YEMA in 2009, aiming to reinforce French manufacturing. The development of the in-house MBP1000 caliber marked a commitment to precision and reliability.
By 2020, YEMA became the official partner of the French Armed Forces, providing military-grade watches. In recent years, the YEMA2000 and YEMA3000 calibers have been created, and in 2023, the brand introduced its first Manufactured caliber, the CMM.20, the first French micro-rotor movement.
YEMA now emphasizes local production, ensuring high-quality, fully assembled watches from Morteau workshops, keeping the tradition of French watchmaking alive.
Where Are Yema Watches Made?
YEMA watches are designed, prototyped, and assembled in Morteau, France, which is known as the cradle of French watchmaking. Especially in recent years (since Ambre France took over in 2009), YEMA has focused on local manufacturing, producing most components within a 72 km radius of Morteau and assembling them in its own workshops.
Read also: Are Yema Watches Good? Everything You Need to Know
Why is YEMA So Special?
In a world filled with mass-produced timepieces, YEMA watches maintain a distinct identity rooted in French watchmaking heritage. Every design decision, every mechanical innovation, and every in-house caliber reflects decades of expertise and a commitment to quality. For watch enthusiasts seeking more than just a functional watch, YEMA delivers performance, reliability, and a touch of history. Here’s why these watches are so special:
1. Heritage and Expertise
YEMA has a long history rooted in Morteau, the cradle of French watchmaking. Every watch is designed, prototyped, and assembled by highly skilled watchmakers with decades of experience, reflecting meticulous craftsmanship.
2. Professional Tool Watches
From diving and aviation to racing and extreme expeditions, YEMA watches are engineered for demanding conditions. Iconic models like the Superman and Flygraf demonstrate durability, legibility, and reliability, earning trust from both adventurers and professionals.
3. Technical Achievements
YEMA’s in-house calibers, including the MBP1000, YEMA2000, YEMA3000, and the Manufacture CMM series, showcase the brand’s commitment to precision engineering and horological innovation.
4. Local Production
Since Ambre France took over in 2009, most components are produced within a 72 km radius of Morteau, with all assembly completed in YEMA’s workshops. This focus on local manufacturing ensures quality, authenticity, and a strong connection to French watchmaking tradition.
5. Reliable Under Extreme Conditions
Collaborations with military forces and space missions highlight YEMA’s technical credibility, proving that these watches are not only well-crafted but also highly dependable in the most challenging environments.
Read also: Yema Dive Watch, A Must-Have Tool For Underwater Activities
YEMA Watches Review from Gnomon Watches Selection
For watch enthusiasts exploring French horology, this YEMA review takes a closer look at some of the standout timepieces available at Gnomon Watches. You might be asking, “Are YEMA watches any good?” The answer lies in the brand’s legacy of creating reliable, precision-driven mechanical and sports watches that blend vintage design with modern craftsmanship.
From aviation-inspired chronographs to professional dive watches, YEMA has consistently demonstrated expertise in watchmaking while maintaining a distinct French character. Whether you’re a collector or simply curious about high-quality tool watches, this review highlights why YEMA continues to earn respect in the watch community.
1. YEMA Flygraf Bi-Compax French Air Force Black
The YEMA Flygraf Bi-Compax French Air Force Black is a pilot’s watch designed in collaboration with the French Air Force. Built for fighter jet pilots, it features military-grade durability, high legibility in all lighting conditions, and 100m water resistance.
The 40mm satin-finished 316L stainless steel case houses a Seiko VK61 quartz chronograph with a minute counter at 12 o’clock and a true second track at 6 o’clock. Sword-shaped Flieger hands and hour indexes are filled with Super-LumiNova 7499 C/LE for excellent visibility.
Completing the design, a black French Air Force canvas strap with leather underside and engraved logos ensures comfort and tactical style, fully crafted in YEMA’s Morteau workshops.
2. YEMA Superman Swiss Edition White
Combining heritage design with modern precision, this timepiece preserves the iconic Superman silhouette, including the extended “skin diver” shape, crown, locking device, retro bezel, elevated crystal, and pointy lugs with holes.
Available in two dimensions, 39mm diameter with 48mm lug-to-lug and 11.3mm thickness, or 41mm diameter with 49.5mm lug-to-lug and 11.3mm thickness, it suits different wrist sizes. Its white textured dial, white printed markers, and polished stainless-steel hands are coated with Super-LumiNova Grade A for excellent visibility, complemented by a bezel luminescent marker for precise dive timing.
The Swiss Sellita SW200-1 self-winding movement delivers 26 jewels, a 4Hz beat rate, and a 38-hour power reserve. Enhanced crown architecture and micro-drilled case areas improve operation and precision.
A Yema-embossed screwed-down case back provides 300m water resistance, while the brushed-polished stainless steel bracelet completes the durable, readable, and stylish pilot and dive experience of the YEMA Superman Swiss Edition White.
3. YEMA Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT
Inspired by vintage 1970s Navygraf models, this watch combines French watchmaking heritage with military precision. Its stainless steel case measures 38.5mm in diameter, 46mm lug-to-lug, and 12mm thick, featuring fine satin brushing and a bi-tone navy blue/white sapphire GMT bezel with Super-Luminova BGW9 Grade A numerals for excellent legibility.
At the center of this collaborative creation, the YEMA Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT boasts a matte blue dial with yellow accents, exclamation mark hour markers, and the official Marine Nationale logo at 6 o’clock.
Equipped with the Caliber YEMA3000 automatic GMT movement, screw-down crown, screw-in case back, and 316L steel bracelet with a parachute strap, it offers 300m water resistance and exceptional readability.
4. YEMA Yachtingraf Croisière Meca-Quartz Blue Bracelet
Crafted with a perfect blend of neo-vintage inspiration and modern precision, this timepiece showcases YEMA’s horological heritage at its finest. Measuring 38.5mm in diameter, 10.3mm thick, and 46mm lug-to-lug, the brushed 316L stainless steel case combines durability with elegant proportions, while the screw-in case back ensures 100m water resistance.
Under the domed Hesalite crystal, the blue dial features a “Big-eye” Regatta chronograph, 24-hour sub-dial, and running seconds, anchored by the Yema signature at 12. Powering the watch is Seiko’s VK63 hybrid mechanical-quartz movement, delivering smooth sweeping chronograph hands.
Complementing the design, a sporty 19mm Milanese mesh bracelet rounds out the YEMA Yachtingraf Croisière Meca-Quartz Blue Bracelet experience.
5. YEMA Skin Diver CMM.20 Burgundy
French watchmaking has long proven that excellence is not confined to Swiss or Japanese brands. YEMA has consistently demonstrated mastery in producing fine French-made timepieces with a rich heritage in mechanical watches for sports, aviation, and diving.
Within this legacy, the Yema Skin Diver CMM.20 Burgundy stands out as a modern tribute to YEMA’s 1960s dive watches. Its 316L stainless steel case measures 39.5mm in diameter, 47mm lug-to-lug, and 11.5mm thick, achieving a robust yet elegant presence on the wrist. The brushed surfaces with polished bevels, unguarded crown, and integrated bezel-lock system enhance both vintage charm and functionality.
Under the double-domed sapphire crystal, the burgundy dial features oversized applied triangular markers with Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock. The arrow-shaped hour hand, pencil-shaped minute hand, and lollipop seconds are all filled with lime Super-LumiNova C3 Grade A, making it easy to read in low-light conditions.
Powered by the CMM.20 micro-rotor caliber crafted in Morteau, France, this watch delivers precision, a slim profile, and 300m water resistance. A slim 20mm Scales bracelet with dive extension and on-the-fly adjustment finishes the design while ensuring practical wearability.
Final Thought
By understanding Yema watches history, you can see how the brand has mastered the art of creating timepieces that excel in extreme conditions. Each watch demonstrates a perfect balance of precision, durability, and timeless French design, whether navigating deep-sea dives, high-altitude flights, or motorsport challenges.
The blend of vintage inspiration and modern engineering showcases decades of craftsmanship, appealing to both watch enthusiasts and collectors. With every model, Yema proves that reliability, style, and innovation can coexist, making these watches not just functional tools but symbols of adventure, resilience, and the enduring legacy of French horology.
Read also: Sports Watch vs Dive Watch: What Makes Them Different
