The Timekeeper’s Choice

I recently absorbed the fascinating insights from Ariel Adams' article on aBlogtoWatch, noting how the balance of watch sales is subtly tilting toward the hobbyist rather than the purely luxury consumer. This observation has prompted a deep, nuanced reflection on the current state of our beloved world of watches. To suggest that watch collecting has been solely about status is a statement that warrants further discussion, yet for decades, the pervasive atmosphere surrounding high horology was undeniably saturated with it. So, when we see a genuine return to the essence of the craft—a surge of interest from people who truly care about the heartbeat inside the case and the history etched into the design—it is indeed a profound cause for celebration. This shift is fueled by a more sentimental appreciation, one that deeply values the hours of research spent on movements and the personal thrill of a dial that dares to be different.

A handful of iconic house brand timepieces. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee)

Yet, my perspective remains a neutral one, acknowledging that there are valid, deeply human reasons for both purchasing paths. We simply cannot dismiss the logic that draws certain consumers toward the established “house brands.” When a collector compares a $20,000 piece from a globally recognized pillar like Rolex or Patek Philippe against a skilled but less-known microbrand, an element of real-world practicality immediately enters the equation: sustainability and enduring value.

The truth is, for a luxury consumer, the choice is not arbitrary; it is a calculated decision based precisely on the credibility and proven worth of the timepiece. For many, a watch is not merely a purchase, it is an asset—a trustworthy piece of legacy. The sheer weight of the name itself acts as a guarantee of credibility, a silent assurance that one is making a safe, universally accepted choice. The powerful certainty that a timepiece from a household name will retain, or even appreciate, in value five or ten years down the line is an undeniable incentive. This pragmatic decision is ultimately rooted in a very human need for trust and financial stability, fueled by decades of legacy and unwavering market presence.

Dedication in the creation of Yema timepieces.

Conversely, the rise of the hobbyist buyer illuminates a path paved entirely by passion over profit. This collector is the one who digs deep, ignoring the neon lights of luxury to find the hidden gems. This is where the burgeoning success of microbrands truly shines. They may lack the generational exposure, but they compensate with soul and substance, offering designs unconstrained by corporate convention and putting their effort fully into the watchmaking. For this dedicated enthusiast, the market resale value is secondary. The primary value lies in the story, the craft, and the direct connection to a watchmaker who prioritized their passion. It is these brands, offering genuine horological integrity for the dedicated enthusiast, that truly exemplify the sentimental shift Adams describes. These are the timepieces that possess a soul, deriving their lasting value not from public recognition, but purely from the intrinsic worth and the compelling story etched within.



The Intimate Craft: Where Subtlety Speaks Loudest

We see this commitment perfectly embodied by brands that adopt a deeply personal approach to their work. Take, for example, Hitori Watches, a young company whose philosophy is steeped in the refinement of Japanese craftsmanship, where subtlety speaks louder than excess. Their approach feels almost intimate, speaking directly to anyone who appreciates thoughtful design over simple flash. Their inspiration often comes from specific, serene places, a winding river or a quiet Tokyo ward, making the timepiece a companion, a subtle reminder to pause and appreciate the beauty around us. In this vein, their Yoshino collection, for instance, openly adopts the celebrated “Grammar of Design” principles pioneered by Seiko’s Taro Tanaka in the 1960s, showing a dedication to high design standards that runs deep beneath the surface.

Inside Hitori’s workshop, precise and beautiful timepieces are born.

My own curiosity led me to explore this commitment firsthand, and I have had my personal hands on several Hitori pieces, including the Yoshino, Habuka, and Meguro collections. I can tell you that the tactile experience will absolutely stun anyone expecting an entry-level piece. Every line, proportion, and curve is deliberate, as if the watch itself carries a heartbeat of pure, personal intention. This is where the care truly shows: in the meticulous thought, careful execution, and honest presentation that flows from their design. The finishing, the proportions, and the textures communicate a profound respect for both the craft and the person wearing them.

Hitori Yoshino Cherry Blossom

And while every piece is often priced far below the threshold of conventional luxury, does that make them cheap? Absolutely not. The true measure of their worth is intangible: What resonates most profoundly is the sheer honesty of the craft, a dedication so complete it feels like the watchmakers are pouring their whole heart into the work. They are committed to putting out an extremely good quality piece that honors their own vision and passion. These watches carry a profound story, a soul, and a quiet artistry that speaks louder than any brand name ever could, proving that the true joy of the hobby is personal, meaningful, and accessible all at the same time.



Authentic Heritage and Enduring Strength

There are powerful, long-established brands still waiting to be discovered, especially within the great watchmaking country of Switzerland. They possess a deep, different level of strength: a history built not on mass marketing, but on technical mastery. Squale, for example, the "shark" of the dive world, grounds its reputation directly in its origins as a specialist casemaker, dating back to 1946. This initial focus cemented their expertise in creating robust, highly water-resistant casings, allowing them to become the unsung technical supplier for numerous prestigious brands, including Blancpain, DOXA, and Heuer. The ultimate testament to this authority lies in the fact that Blancpain specifically turned to Squale to supply the case for the mil-spec German Military (Bundeswehr) "Bund" Fifty Fathoms, proving their product was foundational to the entire industry.

Squale 2001 Orange

This same authenticity and quiet confidence defines brands in other historical centers, such as the French horological stalwart, Yema. Established in 1948, Yema has always walked its own path, earning the admiration of true enthusiasts by focusing purely on the watch itself. Among their creations, the Superman stands out as a perfect example of character. Introduced in the 1960s, it carries the adventurous spirit of its era while benefiting from modern refinement. The sense of history is found in the satisfying click of the bezel, the glow of the lume after a day in the sun, and the perfect balance of proportions on the wrist. These are watches that tell a profound story, quietly connecting wearers to decades of watchmaking heritage without needing to announce themselves.

Yema Superman Slim CMM. 20 Blue 39mm

The pieces from these two houses are the treasures the real collectors and hobbyists seek, lying deep under the surface waiting to be discovered. The continuing journeys of these manufacturers, like Yema’s bold move to bring manufacturing fully in house, are powerful statements of dedication to craftsmanship and a stronger sense of identity. Although their names are not widely known, they continue to build with purpose, offering collectors something rare: watches with heart, history, and subtle brilliance that deserve to be appreciated by everyone who values substance over status. When you dive deeper into this world, you realize the true measure of worth is often found in such quiet, enduring pieces.



A Personal Journey in Mechanical Watchmaking

For hobbyists and collectors, the true reward lies in discovering brands that maintain a singular, strong identity, resisting the urge to follow fleeting trends. Orient is precisely one of these quiet forces, a name that sits in the background but possesses a history and a soul that truly deserves notice. Founded in 1950 in Tokyo, Orient has always anchored its purpose in one core principle: the dedicated creation of its own mechanical movements. At a time when many competitors in the watch field chose to cut corners by outsourcing, Orient stood strong in its Japanese spirit, committed to producing its calibers fully in-house. This dedication continues today, creating a special kind of authenticity—a watch made with care, not marketing hype—that seasoned collectors immediately recognize and appreciate.

Weekly Auto Orient King Diver (Photo Credit: Hodinkee)

This unwavering identity is clearly visible in Orient's most beloved timepieces. Consider the King Diver from the 1960s. While dive watches were dominated by Swiss giants, Orient quietly asserted its ambition, creating a capable mechanical diver that carried an unmistakable spirit of purpose. Wearing an original King Diver now is not about chasing status; it is about carrying a tangible piece of Japanese watchmaking history, a reminder of the quiet boldness that fueled its creation. Similarly, the Bambino has become a rite of passage for new collectors. That domed crystal, the clean dial, the quiet elegance on the wrist—it just feels right. Despite being so accessible, it possesses a refinement and honesty that makes the experience of owning it personal.

Orient 38mm Bambinos SG60 Pairs celebrating Singapore National Day. 

It is this commitment to self-reliance and consistency that makes Orient so special. Many people remember the satisfying feel of that first manual winding, or the way the light beautifully catches the curved glass—small moments that establish a profound connection with the watch. Orient doesn’t pretend to be something it isn’t; it remains a well-made watch with an earnest personality and undeniable charm. By standing strong in its own spirit and technical identity, Orient quietly sparks a lasting passion for collecting, powerfully reminding us that the greatest joy in watches often comes from a personal connection to a genuine piece of history.



The Heart’s Final Say

I wouldn’t suggest that the house brands are all about the name and price tag. Their ability to endure for generations and become globally recognized pillars speaks volumes about the ultimate level of craft and commitment required. But setting aside the weight of those historical names, the reality of purchasing habits reveals a beautiful and intricate tension. It truly depends on what each individual values more: is it the credibility and financial security that the name and price guarantee, or is it the unseen spirit and intricate story behind the watch? Is the priority the immediate market value, or the breathtaking design, the movement’s quiet perfection, and the meticulous polishing of the case?

Orient Mechanical Classic Beige Ref. RA-AC00009N

The joy in this current market shift is that we no longer have to choose one truth over the other. The fact that more and more microbrands are now being seen signifies that the sentimental part of the hobby is finally carrying equal weight. When someone chooses a watch for the sheer love of it, whether a seasoned collector or a newcomer, the meaning becomes entirely personal; it is the genesis of a story that is entirely your own. The gentle sound of a rotor or the precise click of a bezel can hold more value than any market fluctuation. Ultimately, who buys what depends on what the customer believes in and what they prioritize for their own life and legacy. And I am simply happy that the watch world has matured enough to honor the heart, the history, and the personal narrative as much as the wallet.

Hitori Meguro GMT Aki Koyo & Fuyu White